The Horse and Groom at Charlton near Malmesbury is the latest Wiltshire pub to receive Marco Pierre White’s Wheelers treatment – with a delicious simplified menu focussing on top quality steak from the Royal butcher Donald Russell, writes Swindon Link jounalist Juliet Platt who went along for a taste.
Explaining the concept the restaurateur and former 3 star Michelin chef said: “It’s really a modern day Berni Inn! I wanted to create an environment people want to sit in, with well prepared and affordable food, where every walk of life feels comfortable and has a good time.”
The menu comprises a complimentary starter salad served with warm sourdough bread, followed by a selection of sumptuous main courses.
Steak from grass-fed cattle, duck, lamb, chicken or sword-fish are served in generous portions accompanied by a selection of side dishes including chips, gratin dauphinoise potatoes, garlic mushrooms and the lightest of onion rings.
Of course the desserts are worth trying as well, perhaps a limoncello sorbet or honeycomb ice cream. Or if you prefer you could share a camembert accompanied by grapes and biscuits.
Describing the style of décor at the Horse and Groom Marco said: “It’s very eclectic. The flag stone floor came from an East End factory. We’ve got ship lights, factory lights, paintings from a Mayfair exhibition, coat hooks from a colliery, stained glass shields from Burberry and proper copper-topped Victorian bar tables from Yorkshire pubs.
Juliet with husband Andy
“It doesn’t really matter if the décor is not to your taste. The intention is that it feels good to be here. We put a lot into each pub and I want to promote a dining experience which is more like how the French eat, where families share their food and are forced to interact.”
Extolling the virtues of his professional and welcoming team, Marco said: “It’s important to have staff from the local community. This is a pub for locals where everyone is welcome.”
If Juliet’s description has made your mouth water, find out more and make a reservation at horseandgroomcharlton.com
Juliet with Marco Pierre.
Photo: Andy Eastham