[Food Review] Strawberry Thief a big venue with small venue cosiness

Swindon Link's Barrie Hudson penned a review after visiting the Strawberry Thief for a working lunch with the team.

The food at Arkell's Strawberry Thief is as tasty in reality as it is on paper.

I know for a fact that it's tasty in reality because I was there with colleagues the other day for a lunch gathering.

I know for a fact that it's tasty on paper because several our dishes had little pieces of very thin serving paper between food and plate, and we were so engrossed in the food that we didn't notice we were eating the paper, too.

This is a testament to the quality of the food, not to mention the quality of the paper, although an adjustment of the presentation here and there might be in order in case anybody becomes alarmed.

I'd last visited Arkell's Strawberry Thief when it opened in June of last year, with a full complement of dignitaries including three senior Arkells, North Swindon MP Justin Tomlinson, the Mayor of Swindon and HM Lord-Lieutenant of Wiltshire Mrs Sarah Troughton, who performed the ceremony.

With more than 400 covers inside and out, it is one of the venerable Swindon brewery's biggest venues, but a carefully-designed layout including shelves of old books and assorted vintage objects provides a far more intimate atmosphere than might be expected in such a huge structure.

A major asset is the enormous outdoor space, which gives people the chance to enjoy the sunshine - when there is sunshine, of course - while eating, drinking and socialising.

The mood is relaxed and friendly, thanks in no small part to the attentive and friendly staff. Our lunch orders were taken efficiently and food and drink arrived promptly and without confusion.

The menu includes starters ranging from £5 to £8, burgers at £14 and £14.50, larger plates from £15.50 to £17 and a range of salads, tacos and other dishes.

Our overall impression was that although the menu didn't contain anything especially unusual in this era of gastropubs, dishes were prepared with genuine attentiveness and immense thought was given to making them as tasty as possible. The quality of the ingredients was excellent, although this was hardly surprising at an Arkell's venue.

My own choice, a 6oz burger £14.50), was served with 3Bs ketchup and crispy onions, lettuce, tomato and pickles. The meat was succulent and had a good, strong flavour rather than the bland something-and-nothing absence which mars many a pub lunch burger.

Something else that mars many a pub lunch is soggy chips which look and taste as though they are going through some sort of existential crisis, but the chips with my meal were crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, as nature intended.

My colleagues were pleased with their choices, too, although some had suggestions as to how a good thing might be made even better.

Malthouse beer battered cod fillet (£17) came with crushed peas, Tartare Sauce, lemon and chips. The recipient, who was especially hungry, enjoyed the size of the portion, the 'lovely' batter and the flavoursome smashed - not mushy, and this apparently makes a crucial difference - peas.

Roasted chicken Caesar Salad (£12.50) with Romaine Lettuce, dry aged Parmesan, garlic croutes and smoked bacon was pronounced delicious, with high quality salad ingredients and succulent chicken.

Grilled watermelon, Feta and pickled beetroot salad (£10) was rated summery, tasty and with high-quality ingredients, although the recipient noted that the sunflower seeds and mint mentioned on the menu seemed to be absent.

The colleague who opted for the blackened spiced courgette and broad bean tacos (£13) said he enjoyed the creativity of the dish but would personally have preferred the spices to be adjusted a little to provide more zing. The dish, he added, was crying out for some sourness.