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24
SWirdon Wide
Postcards from Paraguay

Jake the Juggler and Matt Holland take a trip to South America
Matt Holland, Shaw resident and director of the Swindon Festival of Literature, describes an eye-opening trip with his son Jake
7th September These ramshackle riverside 12th September 14th September
The Lower Shaw Farm boys have dwellings and ragged children are Now in Concepcion, an impoverished It's Wednesday afternoon and Jake
landed, in Paraguay! In Asuncion yards away from the capital's huge but lively colonial backwater. where is outside doing a crazy juggling set
the same sun shines on us as on glass-fronted Palace of Justice with its Jake is hailed in the street as e/ for bewildered onlookers with
Swindon. yet there's an entire ocean magnificent mock-marble pillars that ma/abarista(the juggler) and asks a magnificent Iguazu Waterfalls,
and half a continent between us. reach up to heaven or somewhere. nice man: 'Why have you got a gun?' largest in world in terms of volume of
Have just walked through this Looking out over the sprawl of and gets the reply: 'Because I have water, acascading mountain of water,
capital city of extremes, down to the shacks deep in rubbish and squalor. many guns.' as visual backdrop.
river's edge, to the city's shanty town Jake says: 'This is just what we Yesterday we headed north over This morning, after breakfasting
and slums. A couple of locals tell us studied at school but seeing it is the great slow River Paraguay to a on freshly-squeezed orange juice and
not to go further because this area is worse.' region called the Chaco. slices of papaya. we rowed out onto
demaciadope/igroso, too dangerous, 10th September We found ourselves faced with a the River Aracay in a heavy wooden
but it's just where we want to go. It Have to keep pinching ourselves to tough and muddy trek at the end of home-made boat, oars like tree
looks so friendly and alive, with life make sure we are not dreaming. Did the passable road. Our destination: trunks, and fished among the water
and colour, children playing and we really ride out together on those the Lengua Indian settlement of lili es and sipped terere (local tea)
grownups laughing. two lively gaucho horses along the Makthlawaiya where I spent one of from cow's horn guarnpaand drank
red dirt road and overthe open my childhood years not going to in the riverbank views.
campo by the palm, citrus. school but living with and learning 18th September
and mango trees, termite hills from the Indians. In search of South American writers
and grazing Zebu cattle, and At the last outpost here, inhabited for next Swindon Festival of
down to the river? Did we by two indigenous families, six dogs, Literature, visit famous Paraguayan
really swim in the beautiful one pig. one parrot, and countless lyricist, who lives in a white brick
clear waters of the Rio scrawny chickens, we'd
Tapiracuai and end the day hoped for horses but they
cooking fresh fish over an were all too old, too young,
open fire? ortoothinto ride. So Shank's
Did Jake really juggle us pony was our only option.
out of trouble when those two We girded our loins, that is,
big policemen dripping with put two bottles of water, one
guns sought fictitious bar of du/ce de mans (nut
certificates from us as a ruse chocolate) and one bag of
to extort bribes? ga//etas (hard round
biscuits) in one small
rucksack, let a kindly Indian
PALM JOINERY pull out his knife and cut us
two makeshift but rainproof
Purpose made and standard size Joinery and Cabinetry
ponchos out of old tarpaulin.
Doors, windows, staircases, bedrooms, home studies etc and, with Victor Hugo. our
To discuss your requirements poetically-named Para-
Yello in guayan guide, set off in
call Derek Palmer on 01793 854 777
Yellow relentless drizzle along a
y
Unit 10 Ottklands lnd. Est. Bra don. Swindon ^- Pages
very muddy track towards
Makthlawaiya.
We are only reminded that we are house in a black iron cage and writes
still in paradisal Paraguay by the songs of love. loss and longing.
phenomenal wildlife all around us, Proposes a piece called Mujer Latino
herons and wading birds among the Americana for lit test. We'll see.
water lilies, sights and sounds to fill a Now nearing journey's end. If you
naturalists notebook. We look, point, imagine that highlights are many but
and delight initall. But howfarstill to include riding free over the campo on
With 250 bikes go? The Indian on foot, says one li vely horses and soft sheepskin
thing, the Paraguayan on horseback saddles; swimming in the clear and
on show another. Helpful imprecison is a way beautiful waters of the Tapiracuai
of life here. river: walking miles through the
THE price is right Our clothes, footwear and feet are wildlife-filled expanse of the Chaco;
completely wet and mud is creeping enjoying the endless friendliness of
THE parking is free
up Jake's jeans. We trudge on and the Paraguayans, their wonderful
try to encourage ourselves by saying wish to communicate and connect,
T" 'x that the Lenguas Indians do it all the which demonstrates how much in life
ti me, walking barefoot in these can be achieved simply through
Parts, conditions. Actually, they do not, only friendship and good relations, even
some of their women do, to collect though their way of doing everyday
repairs, accessories, f
wood and carry provisions, while the practical things is so unfettered and
back up stock men restrict themselves to doing free it would give an English risk
Open: Mon to Sat 'manly' things. like thinking, assessor palpitations: and that we
9am to 5.30pm W pH dreaming, and drinking. We do finally are getting little pangs of Paraguayan
HFpr
Closed Sundays make it to the settlement, which is sadness at our imminent departure
very run down and the Indians now but are also looking forward to coming
wear Nike hand-me-downs and look home, then you are perfectly right!
lost. Why this is so is another story. Ho/a Swindon y hasta /a vista
As is our muddy slog back. Paraguay!